All my plans are complete. A couple are a little scant on details which I will cover, but here they are:
For starters, the final floorplan. There was an error on the last set I posted, the floorplan was supposed to be mirrored so that the door opens to the slab, and not to the yard. This does make it non-conventional with regards to campers and RVs, which conventionally have the door on the right hand side, but the trade off isn't worth it in my opinion. I don't have enough space to put in a second door. The little box at the top is the location of where the axles on the trailer are. I also don't intend to fasten the pantry, that way I can slide it around a little if I get a bigger fridge in the future.
First up is the subflooring. This is pretty basic stuff; no surprises here. The only real thing to note is that I plan on putting the short joist on the back of the trailer, where it will have less support underneath it.
Next up is the walls. These are a little barren on info, most notably windows and doors. I will probably stand the walls up first and install the doors and windows afterwards. It wastes a little wood, but is significantly easier, and is a lot more foolproof (remember the shed doorway where everything was off by two board thicknesses? That won't happen this way). One thing not noted here is that I will need to install California corners on the floor joists, since the walls are going directly on the subflooring, which is not conventional. This is because having a 6" strip of plywood is not very stable, and the floorplan is 8' 6" wide. It also allows me to not permanently install the flooring at this stage, which will be beneficial when I get to wiring and plumbing.
Next up is the roof. Since I don't have the taller back end anymore, I have switched it to a standard gable style roof. This is the same type of roof that I installed on my shed. There is no overhang because the framing is right at the legal width for the road. I intend to eventually attach awnings over the windows to help prevent water from coming in.
One that is done, I will likely install the windows and doors so I can seal up the outside, though I don't have a sheet for that. That would be followed by electrical and plumbing. I didn't color code them (normally in modern CAD tools each circuit would be a different color) but listed out what each circuit is. The ones with question marks I will have to look at the manufacturer's recommendations for the amperage rating. I don't want to install a 15A breaker for the dishwasher then install a dishwasher that requires a 20A circuit for example. I guess I could in theory just install 30A in all the question marks, but that is a waste of resources. I will probably do most of the wiring in 12gauge, since I intend to just buy a spool of it, and it is good for anything 20A and under. I could potentially end up buying 10 gauge wire and then wiring the entire house in that as well, that is a distinct possibility.
Then we have the plumbing. This one is color coded. I actually forgot the venting at first, but thankfully when I was perusing the internet, someone mentioned venting and I remembered. I am still debating whether or not my air source will be a true normal outside vent or just an air admittance valve in the attic. I might ask around at work, see if anyone has any strong feelings one way or the other. The only other thing to note, everything in a plumbing system has a P trap (except for the toilet which has one built into it). I do have a single vent for the sink and for the shower drain (it is called a wet vent), which should be ok. If I end up having shower drain problems, I can add a branch and install a second vent.
After that is all the interior work, which is noted on the floorplan. If any of my readers notice something amiss, feel free to get a hold of me.
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